Many of our American guests staying with with Matterhorn Chalets in Zermatt like to explore the famous ‘Mark Twain Trail’ during their visit.
This scenic path includes not just panoramic views, but the chance to walk in the footsteps of the writer of the American literary classics “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” and “The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn”.
‘Climbing the Riffelberg’ by Mark Twain
The trail commemorates Mark Twain’s visit to the region in August 1878, an experience that inspired the satirical piece, ‘Climbing the Riffelberg’, included in Twain’s 1881 travelogue, ‘A Tramp Abroad’.
Twain was drawn to Zermatt by tales of the many mountain expeditions that had taken place following Sir Edward Whymper’s first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.
His first night was spent at Zermatt’s oldest hotel, the Monte Rosa, but he was keen to visit the Hotel Riffelhaus, the oldest accommodation on the mountain, built in 1855.
In the 19th century, the only way to reach Gornergrat and Riffelberg was to walk. It is not what we would consider to be especially ‘difficult’, but that did not prevent Twain bringing his famous humour to the occasion.
‘Guides, surgeons, barmen, and even ironing ladies and pastry chefs’
In his story ‘Climbing the Riffelberg’ he satirises the Victorian obsession with mountaineering, detailing an entourage of 205 individuals, including guides, surgeons, barmen, and even ironing ladies and pastry chefs.
The provisions listed for his testing climb are equally extravagant: 22 barrels of whisky, 2,000 cigars, 154 umbrellas, 143 pairs of crutches, 25 spring mattresses and 27 bottles of opium tincture!
Twain was certainly impressed when his party finally reached the summit:
“Nowhere else is there such an exhibition of size and beauty as can be seen from the summit of the Gornergrat.”
The modern Mark Twain Trail
Today, hikers can retrace Twain’s steps along the Mark Twain Trail (Trail No. 18), a route that covers approximately 3.4 kms from Riffelberg to Riffelalp.
It’s a moderate hike, with a descent of about 375m, and takes around 50 minutes. The trail offers stunning views of iconic peaks such as the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, and a chance to enjoy the same awe-inspiring scenery that once captivated Twain.
We recommend wearing good footwear and taking water with you. Barrels of whisky are optional!
You can read Twain’s ‘A Tramp Abroad’ for free here.
Book your accommodation in Zermatt
If you would like to follow in the footsteps of Mark Twain, then check out our accommodation options on our website, or if you’d prefer to chat, please call us on +41 79 247 15 88.
Ed and Suzanne can help arrange every detail of your stay in Zermatt in addition to your accommodation via our Concierge Service, including airport transfers, lessons, lift passes, restaurant bookings and everything else up to, including ironing ladies and pastry chefs, if – like Mark Twain – that’s what you need!